In the hum of late July, with the whisper of vacation already in the air, an email landed in my inbox that shattered the summer calm. It was from our Brazilian partners, and frankly, it seemed surreal. Had the Brazilian sun gotten to them a bit too early before the Rio Olympics? Perhaps. But upon a second read, and a quick dive into Google, I was utterly amazed.
The Unbelievable Truth: Two Brazilian men, with zero Russian language skills, decided to embark on an unprecedented journey. Their mission? To traverse 10,000 kilometers across Russia on motorbikes, from the cultural heart of St. Petersburg to the far-flung reaches of Vladivostok, all in just 21 days.
These intrepid Biker Boys had just completed their epic ride and were in Moscow before heading back to Brazil. The opportunity was too golden to ignore. I had to meet these heroes, shake their hands, and hear firsthand about their Siberian adventure.
Let me introduce you to Rodrigo Dessaune, an IT entrepreneur by trade, but a romantic adventurer and die-hard long-distance biker at heart.
Rodrigo Dessaune, one of the biker boys who conquered Siberia, showcasing his adventurous spirit and passion for long-distance motorcycle riding.
What was meant to be a brief meeting transformed into a captivating interview. I peppered Rodrigo with questions about their Siberian escapade. What follows is their incredible story – a testament to the spirit of adventure and the myth-busting reality of traveling through Russia.
10,000 km, 21 days, and seven time zones – that’s a transcontinental haul! Jetlag aside (just kidding!), what drew you to Siberia, a route less traveled, over other famous biking roads around the globe?
Every biker boy has a mental checklist, a ‘bucket list’ of rides.
My riding buddy, Allan Costa, and I have clocked miles on some of the world’s most iconic routes. We’ve cruised down Route 66 in the USA, journeyed to Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, tackled Argentina’s Ruta 40, Chile’s Carretera Austral, Bolivia’s infamous ‘Death Road’ (Carretera de La Muerte), the Pan-American Highway, US-101 on the American West Coast, and the eastern stretch of Australia’s Highway 1. Yet, the trans-Siberian route remained untouched, a challenge looming on our horizon.
For adventure junkies like us biker boys, the next thrill always needs to push boundaries. We crave that feeling of testing our limits, of conquering new frontiers. Siberia, with its vast, untamed landscapes, was the natural next step. Then there was the language barrier – neither of us spoke a word of Russian. Navigating that challenge added another layer of intrigue. And let’s not forget the mystique of the trans-Siberian route, a legendary path shrouded in beauty and enigma.
Biker boys' motorcycle parked against a scenic Siberian backdrop, emphasizing the vastness and beauty of the trans-Siberian route.
What were the top three reasons that fueled your Siberian dream?
First, the sheer difficulty. Crossing the world’s largest country, spanning seven time zones, and facing unpredictable road conditions – it was a siren call for extreme biker boys like us.
Second, Russia, to us, was an unexplored gem, a land of diverse culture and breathtaking scenery waiting to be unveiled.
Third, for many Brazilians, the trans-Siberian route is etched in our minds as the ultimate mysterious, adventurous, and exotic journey. We wanted to experience it firsthand, but on two wheels, not confined to a train. And, while it’s a side note, the legendary beauty of Russian women did cross our minds, though we were both happily committed back home in Brazil!
Biker boys taking a break during their Siberian motorcycle adventure, enjoying the stunning landscape and camaraderie.
Few Russians, even, have undertaken such a journey across their own country. Myths about desolate Siberian lands often deter people. Did you have any safety concerns before you set off?
Absolutely! Our friends, their friends, even Russian acquaintances – they were all skeptical. The common wisdom painted a grim picture. They bombarded us with tales of treacherous roads, unfriendly locals, corrupt police, mafia, Cold War remnants, bears roaming the streets (just kidding, mostly!), and other unsettling scenarios. It was a cocktail of clichés and fear-mongering.
The only thing missing from their horror stories was alien encounters. But honestly, these warnings only intensified our resolve. We distrusted stereotypes and myths; we were confident reality would be different. Even if the worst-case scenarios played out, we knew we’d gain an unforgettable story. And isn’t that the core desire of every adventure-seeking biker boy?
Now, after nearly 11,000km and countless encounters with people, we can confidently say the negative preconceptions about Russia are largely fiction. We found welcoming people eager to help, surprisingly decent roads (far better than anticipated), well-stocked shops, and mostly pleasant weather.
Biker boys navigating a Siberian road, showcasing the surprisingly good road conditions and the vastness of the landscape.
Speaking of aliens – tell me about that incident between Belogorsk and Khabarovsk…
Ah, yes, that was one of our less smooth days.
We left Belogorsk early to make up time, hoping to beat the midday heat. Then, disaster struck – one bike sputtered to a halt, out of gas, 10km from the nearest station. There we were, two biker boys stranded, bikes plastered with hordes of dead insects that seemed to materialize from thin air. We limped to a scenic bridge to grab some photos.
Lost in finding the perfect shot, we started hearing voices. We thought we were hallucinating – stranded in the middle of nowhere! But we both heard them, thankfully confirming our sanity. So, we continued snapping pictures.
The voices grew louder, and that’s when the alien thought popped into our heads! We half-expected a spaceship à la Independence Day to descend. But the source was less extraterrestrial. Loudspeakers on the bridge! A guard in a gatehouse was yelling at us to get off. We’d unknowingly stumbled into a border zone where stopping on the bridge, let alone taking photos, was strictly prohibited for security reasons. Turns out, it wasn’t aliens, just the Russian army! Quite an adrenaline rush, but the photos were worth it!
Biker boys capturing photos on a bridge in Siberia, highlighting their adventurous spirit and close call with border security.
At this time of year, mosquitoes must have been relentless…
Relentless is an understatement! In some regions, we’d end the day completely entombed in dead insects. Literally everything – jackets, pants, helmets, boots, windscreens. We made countless stops just to wipe our visors clear enough to see the road!
It’s almost unbelievable that you didn’t face more significant problems on such a long journey!
Of course, we had our share of technical hiccups. But they weren’t catastrophic, and in a strange way, they added to the adventure. Perhaps due to fuel quality, our bikes started guzzling more gas than anticipated, forcing us to slow down and seize every refueling opportunity. We also battled tire and equipment issues. There were moments when we just wanted to ditch the bikes, grab the first air-conditioned flight, and vanish. But quitting isn’t in a biker boy’s DNA. We pressed on!
Our biggest setback was a broken clutch near Omsk. We were marooned in the city for three days, a vortex of anxiety and fervent prayers for the mechanics. Replacing a clutch on a BMW motorcycle requires essentially splitting the bike in two. Seeing our machine in pieces was a disheartening sight. But then we thought, if Russians can build MIGs, spaceships, and nuclear reactors, fixing a motorcycle – even one bisected – must be child’s play.
A disassembled BMW motorcycle in a Siberian repair shop, illustrating the mechanical challenges faced by the biker boys during their journey.
Close-up of the disassembled motorcycle engine, emphasizing the complexity of the repair and the biker boys' reliance on Siberian mechanics.
We only had one encounter with traffic police, near Nizhny Novgorod, for a minor traffic violation. They were incredibly polite, attentive, and professional. And throughout our journey, locals were nothing but helpful.
Once, in Krasnoyarsk, after dinner, I realized I’d left my wallet at the restaurant (perhaps a vodka-induced lapse!). Returning in a panic, we found the manager who had discovered it. He handed it back with a detailed inventory note, every ruble accounted for! It was a pleasant shock for us Brazilians – we’d braced for the worst!
I know that outside major cities, Russian language reigns supreme. How did you manage to communicate?
Easy peasy! We downloaded a dictionary app on our phones! But you’re right, English isn’t widely spoken, especially in the Siberian provinces. And the funny thing? Among the few non-Russian speakers we met in provincial Siberia were… Colombians and Brazilians!
Biker boys using a translation app on their phone to communicate in Siberia, highlighting the blend of technology and adventure.
Seriously?
We were as surprised as you are. Pure astonishment when we bumped into a Colombian family in Chita. They were also world travelers, heading in the opposite direction. We exchanged stories, contacts, and planned a future meet-up in Colombia.
Biker boys meeting a Colombian family during their Siberian adventure, showcasing the unexpected international encounters on the road.
Our second non-Russian speaking encounter was in Vladivostok. We met a Brazilian couple, Renan and Paula, who, by sheer coincidence, were staying at the same hotel. They’d been globetrotting for almost three years and had just completed their own trans-Siberian journey – by car. Spotting the Brazilian flags on our bikes in the hotel parking lot, they tracked us down. It was the most delightful and unexpected finale to our adventure!
Biker boys meeting a Brazilian couple in Vladivostok, celebrating the end of their trans-Siberian journeys together.
Tell me about your trip planning. Was it meticulously mapped out, or more of a ‘fly by the seat of your pants’ approach?
Meticulous planning isn’t really our style.
We believe a true adventure needs autonomy and self-sufficiency. That definitely complicates the planning. This trip wasn’t entirely spontaneous. We set key milestones and consulted local contacts for advice on accommodations, local customs, and emergency contacts. But improvisation was a constant, and often led to the best surprises.
Initially, we booked hotels along our planned route. Normally we avoid pre-booking, but given the language challenge, we wanted guaranteed stopping points.
However, the clutch mishap and three days lost in Omsk forced us to ditch the reservations and embrace a more spontaneous approach. That’s how we serendipitously met Renan and Paula. Had we stuck to our original rigid plan, we’d have been in a different Vladivostok hotel, and that incredible chance encounter wouldn’t have happened.
Biker boys celebrating their arrival in Vladivostok, marking the successful completion of their trans-Siberian motorcycle expedition.
Let’s talk tech. What gear did you rely on?
We both rode BMW R1200GS bikes. Luggage space was tight, so we packed strategically. We carried one DSLR camera, two GoPros, cellphones with local SIM cards, a laptop for blog and social media updates, essential personal items, and a comprehensive first-aid kit with basic supplies and medications. Thankfully, we barely needed the first-aid kit, but better safe than sorry. You can find a detailed gear list here (in Portuguese, with a Google Translate version for English readers). We also invested in top-quality protective riding gear – jackets, pants, boots, and high-tech thermal layers for warmth.
Biker boys showcasing their BMW R1200GS motorcycles and riding gear, emphasizing the importance of reliable equipment for long journeys.
Close-up of biker boys' riding gear, highlighting the protective jackets, helmets, and gloves essential for motorcycle touring.
Visiting Lake Baikal is a lifelong dream of mine, summer and winter! I’ve never been. You experienced it – what were your impressions of this natural wonder?
Lake Baikal was a chapter in itself.
We anticipated it being a highlight, and it exceeded expectations. Unfortunately, the Omsk delay forced us to shorten our Baikal visit. But even with limited time, we were captivated by its beauty. Listvyanka, a charming lakeside village, offered a cozy atmosphere. We savored traditional smoked Omul fish right on the shore. We rode along the lake for about 100km, witnessing landscapes that are now etched in our memories forever.
Lake Baikal's stunning shoreline, captured by the biker boys, showcasing the natural beauty and tranquility of Siberia's iconic lake.
Any future plans to return to Russia for more biking adventures?
Absolutely! Let me share one last story. While stranded near Omsk with the broken clutch, a biker stopped to help. His English was minimal, but we understood he was heading to Magadan – a legendary, almost mythical city for bikers in the Far East, reachable via the infamous ‘Road of Bones’. I Googled it, researched the route, and now, Magadan is calling my name!
Biker boys on their motorcycles during sunset in Siberia, hinting at future adventures and the allure of Russia's vast landscapes.
By the way, that biker was incredibly kind. Realizing help was already on its way, he offered us sunflower seeds to cheer us up. He didn’t have much, but his spirit and biker camaraderie were deeply appreciated. Later, we learned this is typical Siberian hospitality – people don’t leave others stranded. It’s a tradition born from harsh winters where abandoning someone could be fatal. In this region, lone travelers understand the unspoken code of mutual support.
Thank you, Rodrigo! Have a safe journey home, and wishing you many more thrilling, yet safe, adventures!
P.S. For those wanting more details, our entire adventure is documented here. It’s in Brazilian Portuguese, but online translation tools are ready to assist!
