Flipping through the photo album from our Burlington to Montreal bike trip, the sheer variety of landscapes we experienced truly jumps out. The snapshots capture our journey along the beautiful shores of Lake Champlain, up the historic Chambly Canal next to the Richelieu River, and finally reaching the impressive Montreal skyline, before turning back again. The images show us cycling through peaceful rural areas, charming small towns, and endless stretches of farmland. Yet, these photos only hint at the depth of this adventure. Sharing the album now brings back vivid memories of warm encounters with locals, incredibly satisfying meals earned after long rides, the ache of tired muscles, battling against strong winds, cycling through gentle rain, and the countless little moments that made up our unforgettable family experience. It truly was an incredible adventure for all of us.
It was in late August of 2018 when my husband, our two teenage sons, and I, with passports tucked securely in our panniers, started our cycling journey from Burlington, Vermont, with Montreal as our goal. In the past, our bike tours often followed dedicated rail trails and relied on meticulously pre-planned, turn-by-turn directions. This time, however, our route was a mix of dedicated bike paths, a scenic canal route, and quiet roads. This meant we needed to be more engaged with maps and navigation, adding an element of exciting uncertainty. Knowing this would bring a sense of adventure, I intentionally avoided over-planning. My thinking was that figuring things out together would be more fun (and honestly, it saved me a lot of pre-trip planning time!). My approach proved successful right from the start. Whenever we reached a route decision point, we’d pull out the maps, have a quick family discussion about the best direction, and then simply pedal on.
Day 1: Exploring the Island Line Trail and Lake Champlain Islands
Our cycling adventure began on Vermont’s renowned Island Line Trail, a spectacularly scenic bike path that gracefully curves through Lake Champlain, connecting Burlington with South Hero Island. Residents of this area are truly fortunate to have such a well-maintained and picturesque bike path right at their doorstep. As I cycled along this beautiful section, with my three favorite people ahead of me in the distance, a feeling of pure joy washed over me. I realized I was smiling so broadly my cheeks actually started to hurt – a happy problem that would continue throughout much of this trip! With warm, sunny weather predicted and my healthy family by my side, I simply couldn’t contain my happiness as we started our journey on this iconic Burlington Vt Bike Path.
The afternoon was spent exploring the rural and mostly coastal roads that wind through the Lake Champlain islands. We were constantly treated to breathtaking views of the lake, stopping frequently to admire the unique handcrafted items displayed in gardens and woodlands along the roadside. On South Hero Island, we stumbled upon a whimsical display of hundreds of brightly colored birdhouses adorning the trees in a marshy woodland. As we paused to take in this charming scene, we were surprised to discover camouflaged dinosaurs playfully peeking out from behind the tall grass and trees (yes, dinosaurs!). Shortly after this unexpected encounter, we spotted the first miniature stone castle of the day, tucked away in a vibrant flower garden. And it wouldn’t be the last – the Champlain Islands are truly a magical place to explore by bike.
Our delightful first day concluded in northern Vermont at the historic Ransom Bay Inn and Restaurant, a building dating back to 1795. After a delicious dinner, generously accompanied by warm, freshly baked bread that was constantly replenished, we spent a relaxing evening playing cards in our room, indulging in Snickers bars and peanut M&Ms for dessert, already excited for the next day’s ride.
Day 2: Bonjour to Quebec and Peach Farm Delights
Day two saw us crossing the border into Quebec, where the lakeside scenery transitioned into a landscape dominated by cornfields. Cornfields and cows! I amused myself by practicing my “bonjour” greetings to the cows until they flowed smoothly and the cows seemed to nod in approval. We cycled through this flat farmland for most of the morning, and just as the scenery started to become a little monotonous, unexpected entertainment came our way. In the distance, we noticed a house with a large front yard. A man on a riding mower had stopped his regular mowing pattern and was heading diagonally towards our sons, who had paused in front of his house, waiting for us to catch up. My husband and I arrived just as he reached the edge of his yard.
He turned off the mower engine and called out to the boys across the street, “Where ya head’n?” It’s a question we often hear when we’re traveling with all our bike touring gear.
“Montreal,” they replied in unison.
“Ya like peaches?”
By this point, I was close enough to join the conversation. “Yes, we do!” I responded enthusiastically.
He directed us to take the next left and go down the road a bit, promising to meet us there. We followed his directions, and so began an impromptu, nearly hour-long detour to a small family-run peach farm. We were incredibly grateful for the delicious, fresh snack and the impromptu education in peach farming in Quebec. Our host, for his part, seemed to genuinely enjoy the break from his work. It was a mutually enjoyable and beneficial interruption for everyone. I don’t recall the man’s name, but I can still vividly remember the sweet taste of those juicy peaches – a perfect and fitting memory from our bike trip.
Continuing on, now with extra peaches stowed away for later, we soon left the cornfields behind and entered residential areas as we approached Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu. There, we found the Auberge Harris, a fantastic hotel specifically catering to cyclists. They provided us with helpful maps, a substantial continental breakfast, and secure bike storage. We gratefully tucked our bikes away for the night, enjoyed long, refreshing showers, and walked into town for what turned out to be our undisputed favorite meal of the entire trip – a meal that has since inspired our younger son’s burgeoning aspirations as a food critic. Sitting on the patio at Capitaine Pouf, with plates piled high with perfectly fried haddock, crispy french fries, and the most amazing coleslaw we’d ever tasted, we reminisced about other standout meals from past bike trips. This sparked a lively debate, which we’ve revisited several times since. To this day, there’s still no clear winner, although Capitaine Pouf certainly remains a strong contender in our family’s culinary bike tour memories.
Days 3 and 4: Montreal City Cycling and Canal Exploration
Montreal! Our third day began with us following the historic Chambly Canal. We stopped along the path to read about the canal’s important role in the forestry industry and to marvel at the intricate lock system. Throughout the morning, we cycled along this peaceful route, with the calm waters of the canal on one side and the rushing Richelieu River on the other. The canal path led us directly into the charming town of Chambly, where we easily followed signs towards Montreal. As we entered the city via the Jacques Cartier bridge, I had a momentary panic when I realized I hadn’t learned how to say “on your left” in French for passing other cyclists, but I quickly learned that this phrase is simply never uttered in Montreal. Cyclists seamlessly navigate around pedestrians and each other in a silent, fluid dance. We instantly became part of this well-oiled machine. Safety and courtesy are paramount, and pedestrians, cyclists, and cars all flowed effortlessly along the city’s trails and streets.
Our rest day in Montreal included a leisurely ride along the historic Lachine Canal, a quick visit to La Bicycletterie JR for some minor bike adjustments, and a walking tour to explore the city center. We stayed at the Hotel Travelodge, conveniently located in Chinatown. It proved to be the perfect base for exploring the downtown area, both by bike and on foot. Our room was small, but it was all we needed and it fit our budget perfectly. When we weren’t cycling, our bikes were safely stored in a locked, gated area of the parking garage. A truly excellent and cyclist-friendly hotel find in Montreal.
Day 5: Weather Turns and Navigational Challenges
Our streak of perfect weather came to an end. We woke up early and cycled out of the city under a heavy, slate-gray sky, passing countless cyclists commuting into Montreal for the day. As we rejoined the Chambly Canal path, the clouds suddenly opened up, unleashing a torrential but thankfully short-lived downpour. Completely soaked, we arrived back in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu and picked up a different bike path, crossing over to the west side of the Richelieu River. This route took us through residential areas and eventually back into more cornfields, where we then faced strong, driving winds. This day also turned out to be our longest mileage day, made even longer by a slight navigational error – one of the minor drawbacks of cycling in an area with so many interconnected bike trails; it’s occasionally easy to take a wrong turn. It also happened to be our oldest son’s birthday. Happy birthday! You get to ride a metric century in less-than-ideal weather. Fortunately, he’s a good sport, and we all still managed to have a memorable day, one we will always associate with his 15th birthday.
Day 6: Scenic Return and Journey’s End
A bitterly cold and windy morning surprisingly transformed into a warm, sunny day as we re-entered the United States on the New York side of Lake Champlain. We thoroughly enjoyed riding along the lovely Lake Shore Road, with the shimmering expanse of the lake and Vermont’s Green Mountains to our left and the majestic Adirondacks of New York to our right. The stunning scenery and roadside apple trees made this one of the most visually memorable days of our entire trip. That, and the two challenging hills we encountered at the end of the day. They arrived as a one-two punch, and the second one really tested my limits. I had to strain my neck upwards to see the top of the hill, and when I finally did, I saw the silhouette of a cyclist pedaling towards the sky. It was one of our boys – probably our younger son, too far away for me to be sure. I looked up again at the silhouetted figure and thought what an amazing photo this scene would make, but I couldn’t bring myself to stop in the middle of that hill. I simply blinked my eyes as if they were the shutter of my internal camera – capturing a mental picture. Just one of so many from this incredible Burlington VT bike path and Montreal adventure.
Nuts and Bolts: Planning Your Burlington VT Bike Path Trip
Resources and Maps
To plan your own Burlington VT bike path adventure and extend it to Montreal, consider these resources:
- Adventure Cycling Association: Offers various resources for bike touring, including maps and guided tour options. Their website (adventurecycling.org) is a treasure trove of information.
- Lake Champlain Bikeways: Provides detailed maps and information specifically for cycling routes around Lake Champlain, including the Island Line Trail and connecting routes.
- La Route Verte: Quebec’s extensive network of bike paths, including the Chambly Canal route and paths into Montreal. Their website and printed maps are invaluable for navigating the Quebec portion of the trip.
- Local Visitor Centers: Visitor centers in Burlington, the Lake Champlain Islands, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, and Montreal can provide local maps and up-to-date trail information.
Itinerary: Burlington to Montreal Bike Tour
This itinerary mirrors our 6-day trip and provides a good framework for your own adventure:
- Day 1: Burlington to Alburgh, VT via Island Line Trail and Lake Champlain Bikeways. Stay at Ransom Bay Inn. 40 miles
- Day 2: Alburgh, Vermont to Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu following map provided by Auberge Harris. Stay at Auberge Harris. 30 miles
- Day 3: Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu to Montreal via Chambly Canal and la Route verte and Jacques Cartier bridge. Stay at Hotel Travelodge. 30 miles
- Day 4: Bike around Montreal, including Lachine Canal and city exploration.
- Day 5: Montreal to Saint-Bernard-de-Lacolle following map provided by Auberge Harris. Stay at Hotel St. Bernard. 60 miles
- Day 6: Saint-Bernard-de-Lacolle to Port Kent, New York (to Burlington via ferry) 40 miles
Guided Tours: Explore with Experts
If you prefer a guided experience to explore the Burlington VT bike path and surrounding areas, Adventure Cycling Association offers excellent options:
- Vermont’s Lake Champlain & Green Mountains Inn-to-Inn Tour: A week-long, van-supported tour showcasing Vermont’s stunning fall colors and scenic cycling routes. Perfect for those seeking a comfortable and expertly planned experience. Vermont’s fall color inn-to-inn tour
- Lake Champlain Long Weekend Self-Contained Tour: A shorter, self-contained tour of the Lake Champlain region, ideal for a weekend getaway exploring the beauty of the Burlington VT bike path and surrounding areas. Lake Champlain long weekend self-contained tour
