– Missed Part 2? Catch Up Here!–
Days 12-18: Oxapampa to Tarapoto – Reflections on an Unforgettable Amazonas Bike Tour
The ride from Oxapampa to Pozuzo stands out as potentially my most cherished cycling experience in Peru. Imagine this: an 80km descent, gently rolling downhill alongside a breathtaking river – a river so stunning it’s already earmarked for a future kayaking expedition. Waterfalls cascaded down, painting the lush cloud forest with streaks of white. It was simply divine. We reached Pozuzo by mid-morning, around 11:30 am, indulging in apfelstrudel and refreshing strawberry juice. Hugo, not keen on museums, was ready to push on, and I happily agreed.
Mind-blowing scenery on the road from Oxapampa to Pozuzo, a highlight of any Amazonas bike adventure.
Welcome to Pozuzo, a unique Austrian-German colony nestled in the Peruvian Andes, offering delightful treats like apfelstrudel on our Amazonas bike trip.
True to form, the road ahead decided to challenge us. It began to crumble, then dared to incline upwards. As if on cue, the heavens opened, showering us with rain, though the heat remained intense. A quick dip in a river offered momentary relief before we pressed onward, eventually arriving in Codo de Pozuzo, self-proclaimed “Beef Capital of Huanuco.” Our accommodation was the usual no-frills hotel, but the remarkably tasty pork ribs (accompanied by rice, yucca, and bananas, of course) were a welcome reward.
The road deteriorates and climbs uphill, an unexpected challenge during our Amazonas bike tour.
The landscape shifted to miles of felled primary rainforest, now sparsely populated by disinterested cows. A stark reminder of the impact of beef cattle farming here. The road conditions were brutal. Hugo’s pedal succumbed to the strain, breaking apart, yet he heroically continued, pedaling on the remaining stub. Tarmac eventually appeared, a sight so welcome I almost considered a celebratory kiss. A friendly motorbike mechanic expertly fixed Hugo’s pedal – a repair that miraculously lasted the rest of our Amazonas bike tour. Another basic hotel, more rice and chicken. My craving for vegetables and pasta was reaching critical levels.
Slash and burn agriculture for cattle ranching, a common sight in the regions we cycled through on our Amazonas bike adventure.
Ever wondered where all those fruit boxes come from? A sobering thought about rainforest use during our Peruvian Andes cycling trip.
Next year, maybe we’ll opt for a moto-taxi! Reflecting on the demanding terrain of our Amazonas bike adventure.
A flashback to 1989: I recalled attending a concert in Cusco by Miki Gonzalez, then Peru’s top rock star. His song “Vamos a Tocache” – a protest anthem about areas then off-limits due to terrorism – resonated deeply.
Now, decades later, I was finally heading to Tocache! Excitement bubbled up to visit this legendary town. My Spotify trial month even unearthed Miki Gonzalez’s greatest hits, providing the perfect soundtrack for this leg of the journey. “Going to Tocache” became my mantra for the day!
Inevitably, the route climbed back uphill to 1800m, including a nerve-wracking passage through a dark tunnel alongside massive fuel trucks bound for the jungle city of Iquitos. The constant vigilance required kept us alert all day. We rolled into Tocache utterly exhausted.
Hugo cautiously enters a tunnel, hoping to avoid oncoming trucks during this challenging Amazonas bike tour segment.
Back into the hills again, a recurring theme on this Peruvian Andes cycling adventure.
A humorous UFO sighting remark adds a lighthearted touch to the challenging Amazonas bike tour experience.
Tocache itself? Another jungle town, yes, but a welcome one. We discovered a hotel with HOT water – our first in nine days! A surprisingly good burger joint on the plaza corner provided sustenance before we succumbed to another deep sleep, knowing a long distance still lay ahead on our Amazonas bike tour. No trace of the terrorists or drug traffickers Tocache was once infamous for.
Today’s destination: Aguaytia, another stop on our extensive Amazonas bike adventure.
Finally arriving in Tocache, 35 years after the song, marking a personal milestone on this Amazonas bike tour.
A quick history lesson: In the late 1980s, the Shining Path, a Maoist terrorist group, gained control of this region, fueled by the sentiment “What has Lima ever done for you? Join us and overthrow the government.” The government responded with police and army deployments, often comprised of terrified, jungle-inexperienced 16-year-old conscripts. Atrocities were committed by both sides, exacerbated by drug traffickers who thrived in the ensuing chaos.
Years of turmoil followed, but gradually, the government invested in basic infrastructure – roads, bridges, sanitation. This enabled locals to transport crops to market and earn a living, diminishing the appeal of the terrorist movement. The drug cartels were subsequently pushed out, though their presence likely remains, albeit more concealed. Peace has largely returned, built on a foundation of improved living conditions.
The region now thrives on various industries: cacao, beef, papayas, pineapples, palm oil and coconuts from palm trees, rice paddies, and even maize. Sadly, logging persists. We witnessed numerous trucks laden with tree trunks heading towards Lima – hopefully from sustainable sources, but likely not.
Suddenly, signs appeared: “Tarapoto 350 km.” We were nearing the end! A bittersweet feeling. One evening, I swam in the Rio Huallaga to cool down. The next day, we agreed on a 5:00 am start to escape the worst of the heat on this final stretch of our Amazonas bike tour.
Intriguing artwork on a local VW Beetle, a cultural snapshot from our Peruvian Andes cycling adventure.
We encountered another local cyclist and I enjoyed my first “rice-free” breakfast in 18 days: delicious porridge, fresh fruit, and granola. Re-energized, I felt “on fire.” We reached our intended overnight stop, having covered 100km, by 1 pm. Spurred by momentum, we decided to continue, pushing further towards Tarapoto.
We’d been following the Rio Huallaga for days – downhill all the way, right? Wrong. Road construction had other plans, diverting us on a circuitous route over foothills. Before one climb, a banana juice and milk from a roadside stand – four whole bananas, sweetened milk, and a spoonful of sugar for just $1 – provided an explosive energy boost, propelling me uphill as if it were flat!
Rice paddies stretch across the Rio Huallaga valley, showcasing the agricultural landscape of our Amazonas bike adventure, and notably, no coca plantations in sight.
A whole lotta coconuts! Evidence of the diverse agriculture encountered on our Amazonas bike adventure.
Papaya plantations are everywhere, showcasing the agricultural prosperity of the region during our Peruvian Andes cycling trip.
Cacao for chocolate production has largely replaced coca, offering a legal and more profitable alternative, as witnessed on our Amazonas bike tour.
We surpassed our previous record day of 144km (mostly downhill), but the road builders had a final test: a grueling uphill at the 150km mark, under the scorching midday sun. Exhaustion and frustration peaked. I found myself cursing the road, the situation, my own stubbornness. But there was no turning back.
Exactly twelve hours after our pre-dawn start, we cycled into Tarapoto’s Plaza de Armas. Hugs were exchanged. A friendly taxi driver captured the moment with a photo. As I wheeled my bike into the hotel garage, the GPS clicked to 180km for the day. A distance that will be hard to beat anytime soon!
Setting off pre-dawn on our last day of cycling to take advantage of the cool air, a smart strategy for an Amazonas bike tour in this climate.
The last climb at Km 150 around 2 pm on day 18 of riding, capturing the sheer exhaustion of this Amazonas bike adventure.
Yey, we made it! 1882 km in 18 days – an incredible achievement on our Amazonas bike adventure!
Later, by the pool, beers in hand, Hugo appeared in a pristine shirt, unearthed from his bag, forgotten until now. I produced a bag of mixed nuts, “emergency rations” carried from Cusco. Confessing to the numerous times I’d considered devouring them when Hugo was out of sight, we laughed at the absurdity of our adventure.
Re-entry into “normal life” after such expeditions is always jarring. The next day, I woke at 5:30 am sharp, despite no alarm, briefly contemplating getting up, before drifting back to sleep until 8:30 am. A leisurely breakfast followed. By 11:00 am, a sugar craving hit – cake and juice were essential. Sugar junkie status achieved; dietary readjustment required.
A local bike shop sold us two small bike boxes for $2 each. Bikes packed, we dispatched them back to Cusco by courier for $20 each – a fantastic service, arriving just four days later.
Two bikes packed and ready to be couriered back to Cusco, a practical solution after completing a long Amazonas bike tour.
Back in Lima, ambulance sirens and car horns replaced cockerel calls. Ceviche and cappuccino replaced rice, chicken, and Gatorade. An airport lady charged me $40 “excess baggage” for my balsa wood crocodile souvenir. Normally, I’d argue, but somewhere around day 16, I’d reached a Zen-like state, thoughts silenced. Desperate to hold onto that tranquility, I smiled, paid, and surprised us both.
Back in Cusco, staring at my computer screen, a smile spread across my face, and this blog post poured out. Apologies for its length, I hope you enjoyed reading it.
1,882km in 18 days, one rest day, 70km in a 4×4, the rest powered by pedals.
We witnessed breathtaking scenery, met wonderful people, engaged in deep conversations. We laughed, and perhaps at times, both contemplated tears. Highs and lows, we supported each other through it all.
We ventured into remote Peru, experiencing places tourists rarely see. A true team, I joked that if tourism falters, Hugo could hire me in his car dealership – my newfound confidence suggesting I’d excel.
Peru is magnificent, untamed, peaceful, and brimming with friendly people living life, where the unexpected is normal, and magical realism thrives.
Thyroid update: it did “go off” during the trip (perhaps that Day 16 moment?). Good news: a new “normal” is established, recovery is imminent. Proof? 3rd place in an over-50s cross-country bike race last weekend. Next: the Andes Race 13k run, office-wide participation. Then a fun run with my dog. Busy times ahead! Hugo and I are already planning the next adventure. Quito? A new Cusco-Cotahuasi road?
So, what are you waiting for… “If Not Now, When?”
The longest day ride I’ve ever done… so far, a highlight of this incredible Amazonas bike tour.
Our complete route from Cusco to Tarapoto – 18 days, 1882km of sheer fun and hard work on our Amazonas bike adventure.
Putting our trip into perspective: our Amazonas bike adventure covered a distance equivalent to London to Monaco!
-Haven’t read Part 1? Click Here!–
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