By The Expert at usabikers.net
I consider myself a seasoned skier, intimately familiar with ski gear. I can discern the metal composition within skis and its function, detail the nuances of each brand (Wagner’s for that smooth glide!), and instantly pinpoint a 120 flex boot that feels more like a 110 (Salomon, I’m looking at you).
However, when it comes to mountain bikes, my expertise dwindles to pure enjoyment of the ride.
Let me confess – and perhaps this is worth more than a therapy session – I’m often lost in the mountain biking jargon. “Enduro”? Is that for day-long races? Are cross-country bikes the ones laden with kitchen gear for extreme bikepacking? (Sounds dreadful, by the way. Base camp and a cold beer, please!) How much suspension travel do I actually need, and should it be the same front and rear? And will a carbon frame, costing more than my child’s future education, magically conquer that rock face that consistently defeats me?
Overlooking the valley from a bike.
My frequent bike shop visits often end with a humbling experience. It usually goes something like this:
“Your chain keeps falling off because your derailleur hanger is bent.”
“Your chain keeps falling off because your rear hub is shattered.”
“Your chain keeps falling off because… well, you know. And how long have your brakes been sounding like that?”
“But I can fix a flat!” I want to protest, weakly. But I don’t, fearing further confirmation of my bike-moron status, and the potential need for actual therapy. (Maintaining the illusion of composure for my therapist is hard work!)
So, for anyone feeling similarly adrift in the world of mountain bikes, I’ve compiled a cheat sheet. I enlisted the help of Nate Miller, owner of Ridgway Wrench bike shop, a stone’s throw from Wagner Skis in Telluride. Nate, a bike tool veteran of 25+ years and single-speed race champion (yes, it’s a thing), kindly shared his wisdom without once calling me an idiot.
Decoding Mountain Bike Categories & Suspension Travel
Let’s start with the basics: bike categories. Much like skis and waist widths, mountain bike types are largely defined by their suspension travel. For the uninitiated (or those even more clueless than myself), travel refers to the maximum compression distance of your shocks – how much they ‘squish’ when you encounter a bump or drop.
Respect the trails: a biker rides a single track high up in the San Juans
Downhill Bikes: 180-220 mm rear travel; 180-200 mm front travel. These bikes are purpose-built for one thing: descending. Heavy and boasting massive suspension, they’re designed to absorb big air and brutal landings. “Downhill only, no uphill ambitions,” Nate clarified. “Think chairlifts, full-face helmets, and body armor.” Downhill bikes are for the extreme rider and overkill for most.
Enduro Bikes: 150-160 mm rear travel; 150-180 mm front travel. Enduro bikes bridge the gap between downhill and trail bikes but still prioritize downhill performance. They’ll climb, but reluctantly – they are heavy and suspension-rich. Ideal for bike parks and lift-accessed riding. “Uphill is doable,” Nate concedes, “but not their forte.”
Trail Bikes: 120-140 mm rear travel; 130-150 mm front travel. “The quintessential all-rounder,” Nate states. Trail bikes hit the sweet spot between enduro and cross-country (XC) bikes. They offer enough travel for challenging descents yet remain light and efficient for longer rides and climbs. “Perfect for those ‘pack a sandwich and raincoat’ adventures,” Nate explains. “Balanced geometry, efficient climbers, and fast descenders. More travel doesn’t equal more speed.” For most riders, the trail bike is the gold standard. Consider these questions when shopping: “Are you hitting jumps?” “Do you ride aggressively, needing maximum suspension support?” Price often correlates with weight reduction in this category.
Cross-Country (XC) Bikes: 100-120 mm front and rear travel; or front suspension only (hardtail). XC bikes prioritize lightness and uphill speed, sacrificing some downhill capability. They are less forgiving on descents due to their limited travel, some even featuring only front suspension (hardtails). “Are you a twice-a-week, couple-of-hours rider, or a serious explorer?” Nate asks. For shorter, less aggressive rides, XC is a solid choice. Hardtails are also excellent for beginners, as their rigidity enhances trail feedback, forcing better line choice and technique. “Riding a hardtail through a rock garden demands precision, which translates to improved bike handling and body position.”
After this explanation, I confidently place myself in the “trail” rider category. But the carbon question lingers: Is it worth the investment? Will it actually help me conquer those uphill challenges?
A man overlooks a mountain while sitting on his mountain bike.
Photo by Dmitrii Vaccinium/Unsplah
Mountain Bike Frame Materials: Carbon vs. Aluminum
Carbon vs. Aluminum. “Carbon offers a superior ride feel,” Nate begins. “It’s more compliant, dissipating energy before it reaches your body, improving maneuverability.” However, the weight difference is often minimal – just a pound or two. “For a strong rider, the difference is negligible,” he adds. The carbon vs. aluminum decision boils down to ride time and budget. (So, my aluminum bike isn’t solely to blame for my uphill struggles. Technique matters, see below!). For hardtail frames, carbon is a worthwhile upgrade over aluminum; titanium, if budget allows, offers an exceptionally smooth ride.
My aversion to flat pedals is akin to riding a horse without stirrups – incomprehensible. Yet, many skilled riders swear by them. I sought Nate’s perspective.
Mountain Bike Pedals: Clipless vs. Flats
Clipless vs. Flats. Clipless pedals offer enhanced pedaling efficiency, enabling both push and pull motions. Flats provide easier foot-down bailout in tricky situations but compromise the feeling of bike unity. Regardless of pedal preference, Nate outlines essential bike and rider gear.
Mountain Bike Must-Haves
- Tubeless Tires: Lighter, reduced rotational weight, and allow lower tire pressure without pinch-flat risk. Lower pressure enhances impact absorption and ride smoothness.
- Dropper Seatpost: Essential for quickly lowering the saddle on descents for improved maneuverability and body positioning.
- 1x Drivetrain (Single Chainring): Simplifies shifting, reduces weight, and often provides ample gear range for most trail conditions. The direct chainline enhances power transfer.
- Hydraulic Brakes: Superior to mechanical brakes. Hydraulic systems offer consistent performance, better modulation, and less maintenance compared to cable-actuated mechanical brakes which are prone to stretching and require frequent adjustments. Hydraulic fluid, however, needs periodic bleeding to remove contaminants and maintain optimal performance.
- Pump: CO2 cartridges offer quick inflation, but a hand pump is indispensable for multiple inflations or when cartridges run out.
- Spare Tube: Tubeless setups can still fail. A spare tube is essential for irreparable punctures or when sealant fails to seal.
- Tire Levers: “Pedros are the gold standard,” Nate recommends.
- Multi-tool with Chain Breaker, Spare Links, and Quick Link: For trailside repairs.
- Gorilla Tape: Versatile for temporary fixes like broken zip ties or tire boots for larger punctures. Wrap some around your pump for easy access.
Mountain biking can get you to some pretty unique locations quicker than walking there.
Mountain Bike Technique Tips
Now, let’s delve into technique.
Uphill Mastery: Aim for a gear slightly easier than your limit, reserving lower gears as bailouts, Nate advises. Higher torque prevents rear wheel spin-out. Shift weight forward, hover above the saddle, and engage your core. Dropping the saddle provides more freedom to move your weight for optimal bike balance. “I lower my seat for tricky climbs requiring weight shifts,” Nate shares.
For switchbacks, shift to an easier gear, enter wide, and cut through the apex.
Downhill Domination: “Don’t fixate on your front tire,” Nate cautions. “Look 10 feet ahead, anticipate upcoming obstacles. Like skiing, focus on your desired path – the gap between rocks – not the obstacles themselves.”
Pre-ride check: Ensure proper tire inflation. This guide is a great resource for tubeless tires. Lighter riders need less pressure, heavier riders more. Terrain also influences pressure, but that’s a deeper dive. “Rim strikes or tire squirm in corners indicate insufficient pressure,” Nate warns.
Unlock your suspension before descending! “We’ve all done it; worst case, you can damage your damper, leading to a pogo-stick shock,” Nate explains.
Brake before corners, not throughout. Feather the rear brake; avoid grabbing the front! Utilize speed to your advantage – momentum helps overcome obstacles.
Downhill mountain biker in the forest
Single track downhill can be a lot of fun.
Trust your tires. Relax your grip. “Tension transmits trail energy to you, increasing accident risk.” Maintain a forward weight bias on the front wheel, similar to skiing, for optimal front tire traction and balance.
For downhill switchbacks, anticipate the corner. Brake primarily before the turn. Feather the rear brake through the turn as needed. The approach mirrors uphill switchbacks: wide entry, apex cut. “I visualize corners like a race car driver (F1 nerd here),” Nate admits. “Fastest line through? Observe and learn. Downhill skiing racers offer similar insights.”
Hopefully, you feel less like a mountain bike novice now. (You’re welcome!) Gear up and hit the trails!
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Article by Kimberly Beekman
Kimberly Beekman, former editor-in-chief of Skiing Magazine (RIP) and longtime SKI Magazine editor, currently “freelances” to fuel her global powder skiing habit. She resides in Steamboat, Colorado, with her daughter and mischievous cat.
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